Short answer: On pre-owned luxury from Japan, condition is graded on a letter scale that runs from N down to C (occasionally D or J). N means brand-new and unused; S is like-new; A shows minimal use; AB shows light wear only visible on close inspection; B shows clear but honest wear; C is heavily used. It is a Japanese secondhand-trade convention, not a maker’s rating — so an “AB” bag is a genuinely good, lightly used item, not a defective one. For most buyers, A and AB are the value sweet spot: clearly pre-owned but still beautiful, at a meaningful discount to retail.
The full Japanese grading scale, grade by grade
Every reputable Japanese dealer grades on roughly the same letters. Here is what each one means and what you will actually see in hand.
| Grade | Meaning | What you’ll see |
|---|---|---|
| N (New) | Brand new, never used | Unused, usually with tags and full packaging |
| S | Like new / near-mint | Used once or shop-display only; no meaningful signs of wear |
| A | Excellent | Very light signs of use; looks great in hand and in photos |
| AB | Very good | Light wear on close inspection — faint corner rub, minor hardware micro-scratches |
| B | Good | Noticeable, honest wear — scuffs, patina, some edge wear — still fully usable |
| C | Fair | Heavy wear; clearly used; priced accordingly |
| D / J | Junk / for repair | Significant damage; sold as-is or for restoration (rare in curated shops) |
A grade describes the overall condition. One small flaw does not set the grade on its own — a dealer weighs the whole piece, then notes specific issues separately in the description.
What each grade is worth: a rough price guide
Condition is one of the biggest levers on a pre-owned price, alongside brand, model, rarity and completeness of accessories. As a rough guide, relative to the same item in new (N) condition:
| Grade | Typical position vs. new | Who it suits |
|---|---|---|
| S | Small discount; near-retail for hard-to-find pieces | Buyers who want near-mint without the wait |
| A | Roughly 10–25% below comparable new | Most buyers wanting excellent condition |
| AB | Roughly 20–40% below comparable new | The value sweet spot |
| B | Roughly 35–55% below comparable new | Buyers happy with visible, honest wear |
| C | Half of new or less | Bargain hunters, project pieces, everyday carry |
These ranges are indicative, not fixed. For pieces where demand outstrips supply — an Hermès Birkin, a discontinued Rolex reference — a well-graded pre-owned example can sit close to, or even above, original retail regardless of grade. Grade tells you about condition; the market sets the price.
Why Japan’s grading is unusually trustworthy
Japan’s pre-owned luxury market is among the most trusted in the world, and the letter scale is a big reason why. Two forces keep it honest:
- Consistency. The same letters mean roughly the same thing across reputable shops and auctions, so an “A” from one licensed dealer is broadly comparable to an “A” from another. A buyer abroad can read “AB, faint corner wear” and know what is arriving without holding the item.
- Honesty by incentive. Japanese resale is run by licensed secondhand dealers (kobutsusho, 古物商). Overstating condition damages a dealer’s standing fast in a tight, regulated market, so grades tend to skew conservative rather than generous.
The practical upshot: Japanese grades are often stricter than the same words would mean elsewhere. A Japanese “B” frequently looks better than a Western listing’s “good.”
How Japanese grades compare to Western condition terms
If you are used to eBay-style wording, here is a rough translation — and where the two systems diverge.
| Japanese grade | Rough Western equivalent | eBay-style wording |
|---|---|---|
| N | Brand new with tags | New with tags |
| S | New without tags / pristine | New without tags / like new |
| A | Excellent / gently used | Excellent used condition |
| AB | Very good | Very good — light wear |
| B | Good | Good — visible wear |
| C | Fair / well-loved | Acceptable / pre-owned |
The advantage of the Japanese system is that it is finer-grained. Western “good / very good / excellent” collapses several distinct states into three buckets; the Japanese scale splits the crucial middle — where most real-world luxury lives — into A, AB and B. That is exactly why serious collectors prefer it.
How to read a Japanese grade before you buy: five checks
A letter is a summary, not the whole story. Use these steps to turn a grade into a confident decision.
- 1. Match the grade to the photos. A trustworthy listing shows the exact corner, hardware or lining wear the grade implies. If an “AB” listing has no close-ups of wear, ask for them.
- 2. Read the flaw notes, not just the letter. Two “B” bags can differ: one with even patina, one with a single deep scratch. The written notes tell you which.
- 3. Check completeness. Dust bag, box, cards, receipts and serial or date codes support both value and authenticity. An AB piece with full accessories can beat a bare A.
- 4. Separate condition from authenticity. The grade is about wear only. Authenticity is a different check — a reputable listing states both.
- 5. Weigh grade against price and demand. For a common model, hold out for A/AB. For a rare one, a strong B may be the only sensible entry point.
Which grade should you buy?
For an everyday luxury piece you will use hard, B is often the smartest money — honest wear, real savings. For a piece you want to feel special, or to resell later, A or AB holds the best balance of condition and price. Reserve N/S for gifts, investment-grade rarities, or when you simply refuse any sign of a previous owner. There is no single “right” grade — only the right grade for how you will use the item.
Frequently asked questions
What does grade AB mean on a used bag?
AB means “very good”: the bag has been used but shows only light wear visible on close inspection, such as faint corner rubbing or minor hardware scratches. It is one of the most popular grades because it balances condition and price.
Is an A-grade bag worth more than AB?
Usually slightly, because A shows less wear. But the two are close, and an AB bag with full accessories can be a better overall value than a bare A-grade one.
Does the Japanese grade guarantee the item is authentic?
No. Grading describes condition only. Authenticity is verified separately by the dealer. A reputable listing states both the condition grade and the authentication result.
Is grade B still good?
Yes. B means honest, visible wear, but the item is fully usable and often a smart buy for someone who wants a luxury piece without paying for near-mint condition.
Who assigns these grades?
The selling dealer or auction house. In Japan these are typically licensed secondhand dealers (kobutsusho), which is why the grading tends to be consistent and conservative.
UDC Luxe Tokyo is a licensed Japanese secondhand dealer. Every piece we list is authenticated and graded on this scale, with close-up photographs of any wear. Questions about a specific item’s condition? Message our specialist on WhatsApp or browse the collection.